Every hoodie on this site lists a GSM figure. Most people scroll past it. It is the most useful number on the page.
What the number means
GSM is grams per square metre: the weight of one square metre of the fabric. It is a density measurement, not a thickness measurement, though in practice the two track each other closely in knitted fleece. A higher number means more yarn packed into the same area.
That single figure predicts most of what you care about. How the piece drapes. Whether it holds a boxy shape or collapses on the shoulder. How long it survives a weekly wash cycle. Whether it works as a mid-layer or as outerwear on its own.
The ranges, and what they feel like
- 280 to 320gsm is a standard mass-market sweatshirt. Light, soft on day one, and the first thing to lose its shape. Fine for layering, not built to be the outer layer.
- 330 to 350gsm is the midweight sweet spot. Substantial enough to hold structure through the shoulder and hem, light enough to wear indoors without cooking. The Alpha Cross Embroidered Sweatshirt sits at 330gsm; the Broadway Washed Sweatshirt at 350gsm.
- 380 to 400gsm is where a hoodie starts behaving like a jacket. Our Styl-O Label hoodies are 380gsm, at a 60/40 cotton-polyester blend that keeps the weight without the shrinkage risk of pure cotton.
- 450gsm and up is properly heavy. The Stussy pigment-dyed hoods sit here. They arrive stiff, break in over a month of wear, and then hold that shape for years. This is the weight people mean when they say a hoodie feels expensive.
Why heavier is not automatically better
A 450gsm hoodie is a commitment. It takes longer to dry, it does not pack down, and in a warm climate it is unwearable for half the year. If you want one piece that works across seasons, the 330 to 350gsm band is the more honest answer.
Weight also interacts with fibre content. A 380gsm cotton-poly blend and a 380gsm pure cotton fleece behave differently: the blend resists shrinking and holds colour, the pure cotton breathes better and softens further. Neither is superior. They fail in different directions.
What GSM does not tell you
It says nothing about the knit structure, the yarn quality, or the finishing. A loop-back terry at 350gsm and a brushed fleece at 350gsm feel nothing alike, because brushing raises the pile and traps air. It says nothing about construction either. Ribbed cuffs, a V-notch collar and contrast stitching are what stop a heavy garment from stretching out at the stress points.
Read the number first. Then read everything after it.